Dig a hole at least one foot wider and equal to the depth of the plant's rootball.
Mix loam, loam/compost, peat moss or similar amendments to the backfill.
If the plant is in a pot, the pot should be removed. If the plant has become pot-bound, loosen the roots or lightly slice along the sides of the rootball.
If the rootball is covered in plastic or nylon wrap, the wrap should be removed. If burlap, the burlap should be untied and laid neatly next to the rootball.
"Plant so the top of the rootball is level with the existing grade".
Mound the perimeter of the hole with backfill to allow the plant to hold water.
Water heavily to settle backfill.
A tree of more than three feet should be guyed so that one stake, one wire and one hose connect to the trunk of the tree. On multi-stemmed trees, guy to the same area of the same trunk. Use at least two stakes. Do not run wire from one stake, around the trunk, to another stake. Remove stakes after one year.
Water three times a week during the first year. Water once a week during the second year. When watering, use enough water to thoroughly saturate the soil so that water remains on the surface for five minutes. Do not wet leaves, especially if watering during the heat of the day.
It takes about one year per inch of caliper for a tree to recover from transplanting.
Water soluble fertilizers, especially natural ones, are good for the first three years and can be used mid-May to mid-July. Follow package directions.
Apply Wilt-Pruf to Fall evergreen plantings. Usually the last warm days of November (with temps above 40 degrees) is best.
The Two Main Causes of Plant Failure: Planting Too Deep and Not Watering Enough.
© Shaker Hill Nursery
Poland Spring, Maine